So you have wired everything to the correct pins (you think) and the config file is correct (you think) and it’s time to see if you’re right! Whereas very few things can go wrong in a chamber, lots of things can go wrong in a console! This checkout procedure is designed to logically test every wire, one step at a time. You can skip whatever steps you want, but every step you skip is one you haven’t checked.
Step #1 Visually Inspecting Power Wiring
Take the time to make sure that positive wires go to positive terminals. Negative wires go to negative terminals. We do this stuff every day and make mistakes here. It’s no problem if you check it before you power on…
Step #2 Verify Display Data Wiring, Expression/Analog Wiring, and Bargraf Data Wiring
Another one that seems like a no brainer, but gets swapped or mis-wired constantly. The display’s data wire (center of the 3 pin connector) gets connected to pin 4 of the C-I accessory header. The analog input cards get connected to pin 2 of the same header. The bargraf doesn’t get connected to that header at all, but gets connected to terminal “A” of the chamber (the wire closest to the MIDI connections). The bargraf snoops the chamber data for its information.
Step #3 Check Input Card Pull-Up/Pull-Down Selectors
The Opus-Two input cards can handle positive signals and negative signals. If they are being supplied positive signals from the keys, pistons, and stops (and they are hopefully, but not necessarily all the same), then make sure those little black selectors are in the “PD” position. If they are being supplied negative signals, make sure they are in the “PU” position.
Step #4 One Last Look At Power Connections
We already checked that the wires that are there are correct, but we haven’t checked that all necessary power wires are present. Do not ever, ever, ever power up a control system without having positive and negative wired to each and every input and driver card. While it is true that there are exceptions to what REALLY needs to be wired, it’s not worth risking frying a card to save a few minutes in wiring.
Step #5 Put in fuses
Not everyone uses external fuses in consoles. We aren’t judging you either way, but if you did, put fuses in before you turn things on.
Step #6 Check to see if the display shows messages
This is where you do it: turn on the console. Affix your eyes directly to the display. Does it turn on? Does it simply say “Opus-Two” on it with the spinner? If so, connect the computer to the C-I card and load the console program. If the console program was already loaded in the controller, the display should show the console starting up. If the controller is programmed and the display doesn’t go to its home screen, then one of the following is wrong (not debatable):
- If the display doesn’t illuminate, there is a problem with its power wiring.
- If it illuminates but doesn’t show anything useful, then there is a problem with either the program not being compiled or loaded correctly or the display data wiring.
Don’t try to go any further until this is fixed.
Step #7 Common Memory Diagnostics
The Opus-Two system has a fantastic self-diagnostic mode in the display where you can see every single input pin that you wired up. Of course, much like the chicken and the egg, you have to have something wired correctly in order to get to that feature. Hold down the set piston and press cancel. The display should quickly change to show Cmn-Mem. If it does, we know that set and cancel are probably wired correctly (maybe backwards, but probably not, right?). The following chart tells you what to test from the screen you have landed in:
Pressing should show this value Trans 01 Track 02 Record 04 Play 08 Up 10 Down 20 Cancel 40 Set 80
It’s worth noting that the up and down buttons will actually change screens, so hold down play while pressing them, should stop them from changing screens… Correct mistakes as you find them!
While in the cmn-mem Pistons screen, check pistons. The general pistons (and toe studs) should shoe their piston numbers on the screen. This is important for 1-10, as they are used to “quick dial” memory levels. Every divisional should show a unique number, although the actual numbers aren’t too important for divisionals, as long as they are unique. Make sure that reversables don’t show any numbers.
If this all checks out, start scrolling up until you get to TI1. This screen will tell you what tabs are turned on. One by one, turn on the tabs, and make sure the correct tab number is displayed on the screen.
Scroll down until you get to the Keyboard buffers. It doesn’t matter what order they are checked in, but check every keyboard and every pedal key to make sure that the correct number/note shows up for each key.
Either make a list, or fix mistakes as you find them. Either way, fix the mistakes. Major mistakes (like wiring the keyboards to one-anothers pins) can be easily fixed by changing the config file. Small detail mistakes (backwards notes) should be fixed in actual wiring.
Step #8 Testing Off Coils
One by one, turn on each stop and use general cancel to turn it off. This will reveal any off coils that are mis wired. On coils are a little trickier, but if the off coils check out, the ons are pretty likely to be okay.
Step #9 Testing Reversable Tab Buttons
Simply ensure that the tab turns on and off when the button is pressed. It is very common to mis-assign these buttons to the wrong tabs.
Step #10 Setting Piston Ranges
While in cmn-mem, hold down track and press play. The display should change to the piston range screen.
To set piston ranges, turn on all stops (and reversables) that are to be controlled by a particular piston (usually start with general pistons and everything on). Hold down the Record button and press each piston that needs to have that range saved to it. Try to press them at one second intervals (or slower) as they directly write to the SD card as you press the buttons.
Set divisionals next following the same procedure.
Test each piston by holding down Play and pressing the piston button. The tabs will move to show which stops can be saved on that piston.
Hold set and press cancel repeatedly until you have returned to the home screen. Set a test piston with something (anything).
Turn off the console.
Turn it back on. Wait for the startup procedure to finish. Did the piston stay? If not, is the uSD card plugged into the controller? If it is, there is a problem with the uSD card.
Step #11 Testing On Coils (and piston memory)
Turn on all odd number tabs. Set all odd numbered generals and divisionals to this pattern.
Cancel the organ and repeat with even tabs on even generals and divisionals.
Now play through the all pistons, make sure they work. This will test that not only are the ON coils wired to the correct stop, but will also ensure that every piston has a mask set to it.
Step #12 Testing and Configuring Analog Inputs
It is important not to skip any steps in the entire console checkout, but especially in this section.
First, we need to make sure that the sensors are providing data back to the console. Press Set-Cancel to get to common memory and scroll up until you reach SC-Analog. One at a time, see if each expression shoe is changing a value in this window. Regardless of which row it is in, the furthest right number is analog #1, #2 is the next number to the left, etc.
If none of the shoes have values that are changing, but there are high values permanently displayed (like 7F or FF) then the shoe is not connected correctly to the cards, but the cards are connected correctly to the console.
If none of the shoes have values that are changing, but there are 0s in the entire buffer, then the analog-in cards are not communicating with the controller card. Make sure the data wire (center pin) from each analog sensor card is going to Pin 2 of the expansion header on the C-I. If the wiring is correct, then either the config file isn’t calling for the analog in cards to poll them, or the cards do not have the correct firmware.
Set_Pedal_Sensor_Options_num_lin ( 33 , 0 , 33 , 1 , 34 , 0 , 34 , 1 , 0 , 0 , 0 , 0 )
That line is critical for the console to scan the SC Analog cards. The line above is calling for sensor 33, connection point 0 as analog 1. Sensor 33, connection point 1 is analog 2. Sensor 34, connection point 0 is analog 3, sensor 34, connection point 1 is analog 4. Nothing is defined for analog 5 or 6. We will re-cap how the sensors work. Each sensor has a hall effect sensor (connection point 2), and 2 analog inputs (connection point 0 for the first one, and 1 for the second one). The sensor can’t be doing both, it is either scanning magnetically with the hall effect, or it is available to bring in analog inputs. For it to bring in analog inputs, the correct firmware MUST be installed in the sensor. It is found in the lib folder and is called opus_pedal_sensor (version number) dual_p. The dual_p stands for dual pot. Load that firmware into the pedal sensor. When loading it, the sensor needs to be given a sensor number. That sensor number goes in the “EEPROM” section of the PicKit2:
This screenshot shows HEX 21 (which is #33). A value of 22 would be used for sensor 34, etc. The byte where that number is shown is the only byte that should be changed or altered in this section.
Once the config file is verified to be correct, the wiring verified, and the the analog cards are programmed with the correct firmware and sensor IDs, check again for a number in the SC-Analog section of Cmn-Mem. Also make sure to be compiling with “c_ia_k all” appended to the end of the command line. These are the only four things that can prevent it from working.
Now that there are values displayed in the SC-Analog, close each shoe and write down the value shown which each shoe is fully closed. Open each shoe and write down the value shown when each shoe is fully open. Go to the excel spreadsheet (download here) and fill in the values. The spreadsheet will create the code for you to copy and paste into the config file that properly execute each shoe into its role. Only copy either expression code or crescendo code for each shoe, never both for one shoe.
Re-compile, reload, and watch the shoes work well.