There are four ways to proceed with ordering an Opus-Two Relay:
- Figure out what parts you need, order them from our online parts store, mount them, install them, and configure them yourself.
- Contact us to determine what materials you need, and we can provide you with the equipment and starter configuration files. You mount the boards, but the controllers come programmed with a starter program in them. As modifications are necessary, you can modify the files we send you. You still build the panels, but we have done most of the basic software for you.
- Order mounted panels with equipment installed, configured, and ready to go. Complete documentation is included as well as copies of all configuration files.
- Full service is also available. This includes technical assistance on site while the console is being built (or rebuilt at a console shop). On-site wiring labor is also provided, and all programming is performed by our technicians.
The following information only applies if you used option 1 or option 2 above:
But for those who have contacted us and decided to build everything themselves, you will eventually get to a point where a box shows up full of cards. This page explains what the cards are and what to do next.
First things first – unpack the box, and look at each card carefully. There will be no less than 3 different types of cards (and no more than 6) required to completely put an organ together.
Separate the cards into groups (ideally keeping them protected in the bubble wrap until you mount them)..
- 64 Bit Input Card
The 64 bit input card is capable of reading either Active High (aka common negative) or Active Low (aka common positive). Each byte (group of 8) has a selectable jumper that allows the pins to be pulled up or pulled down. Whether low or high is on or off is determined by software, the card is merely determining the state of each pin. If active high is being used (common negative) then the jumpers should be in the PD (pull down) position. If active low is being used, they should be in the PU (pull up) position.
- 64 bit output card
The 64 bit output card is either built for 12 volt (high) output or 0 volt (ground) output. The difference between the two is the stuffing on the jumpers near the power connector and the driver chips – all other components are exactly the same. Each output can drive down to 35 ohms at 12 volts. By utilizing superdriver cards, each output can drive down to 15 ohms continuously. The 64 bit output card and 64 bit input card use the same mounting footprints.
- C-I Controller Card
The same physical controller card is used in the console as is used in the chamber. Controllers are software-identified as consoles or chambers.
You should now have piles of:
1) Controller Cards (square with MIDI jacks)
2) Input Cards (rectangular with jumpers underneath each header)
3) Driver Cards (rectangular, but with chips in sockets instead of jumpers)
Generally speaking, a console will have a controller card, and an input card for each manual. Every tab, drawknob, piston, or other control requires a single input pin. Make sure there are enough input cards to accommodate your console size. A driver card is required for every 32 moving controls (each control has one wire for an on coil, and one for an off coil). Non-moving controls (such as lit pistons or lit drawknobs) require only one pin per output. Take the time right now to determine how many input and driver cards you will need and put these off to the side with one of the controllers.
These cards you have placed to the side are for the console and will end up being installed plugged into one another. Generally the order is controller-inputs-outputs. Jumper kits may be provided to allow the chain to be broken into multiple rows (if a jumper kit is needed, just ask, they are not expensive).
The cards left should match chamber requirements. Each location cards will be placed in the chamber needs a controller card and connected driver cards. Again, cards can be installed in rows there as well.